Kundan keshri as it is traditionally known is a traditional South Asian gemstone jewellery, Kundan jewelry is a style of jewelry made with techniques native to India. The word kundan means “refined gold.”
The history of kundan jewelry making in India dates back several thousand years to the Mughal Empire and Dynasty period in India, between 1526 and 1858. It flourished in greatly in the Mughal era as it received royal patronage with the most intricate form of Indian Gem Stone, and is the oldest form of jewellery made and worn in India, still in use. Over the years the kundan jewellery of the courts was successfully copied in silver in Rajasthan, Bihar and the Punjab states and became popular with common man as well. Pachchikam is one such variation of Kundan Jewellery.
The kundan technique involves first placing the desired gem stone into lac. Then, over the lac and around the gemstone, layers of 24-karat gold or silver sheet are pressed together to hold the gem in place and to fill the area around the stone with the metal. Traditional kundan jewelry has visible stones set into a piece on one side and the obverse side of the piece is decorated with an enameling process called “meenakari.” After this, more kundan is layered on to finish the piece to strengthen joints and add to the beauty of the jewelry.
Meena Kundan, also known as Bikaneri or Jaipuri Jewellery, is popular variation in Kundan, where in enameling with vivid colours and design is on the reverse, while the kundan setting in the front. The city of Jaipur in Rajasthan has traditionally been the centre for kundan jewellery in India.
Even today, it remains an integral part of traditional wedding trousseau for a bride, especially as traditional settings such as kundan, thappa and ras rawa are experiencing a revival. No bride’s jewellery collection is complete without a fine Kundan jewellery piece in it. . There are many traditional jewelry manufacturer who specialize in Kundan Jewellery. So if you are planning to go to Jaipur for the finest of jewelry, stay in a homestay as I did and your local host will reveal the gems hidden in nooks and corners both literally and figuratively.
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