Though I have lived in India for 20 years of my life, I still marvel at how little I have travelled in my own country. But things were about to change. The task at hand, see what we could of India in 19 days and Rs 25,000.
This was to be my backpacking adventure on a budget. One definite learning outcome of this excursion was that you can never plan or prepare enough. Even if you do, plans are seldom effective amidst the unpredictability and chaos of India. But I suppose that makes it adventurous and enchanting.
Day 1: Takashi’s Arrival
I was locked into a long phase of procrastination until Takashi, my friend from uni, finalized his plans of coming to India. Tak’s flight was to arrive at seven in the morning of the 11th of April. I got to the airport 3 hours earlier than expected. I could go back home and sleep off the difference but then I would risk being late. So I slept it off on the floor of IGI terminal 3, and what a nice floor it was. Someone should design a bed with flooring material instead of a mattress one of these days.
So we got on the airport express and I watched curiously as he scanned a foreign country for the first time, especially a third world country for the first time. This was utterly strange for me since I realized everything from IGI terminal 3 to the railway station underground did not seem like India. It was way too clean, pleasant and orderly and probably gave him a wrong idea of what to expect. I was giggling at the thought of what he would go through the moment he left that really nice train. It did not take long for things to take a turn and the joke was on me. Tak, it seemed, managed to rough it out on Delhi’s underground system just fine whereas I fell and almost died in a stampede.
Day 2: Around Delhi
In the next 3 days, after Tak slept off his jet lag, we explored Delhi. Of all legs of our journey, this was the bit that could have been planned much better. Having no clarity about what to do and armed only with my outdated knowledge of Delhi, we did the best we could.
This was the first time I saw the Red Fort, the Qutb Minar and Humayun’s Tomb. Symbols of Mogul history and architecture. The Red fort with its long history of being controlled by different factions at different times had a lot to offer. A predominantly Mogul fort with numerous symbols of British architecture that somehow worked well together. Then there is the history that was of particular interest to me. The throne shown in the picture below was indeed India’s seat of power for at least 3 centuries.
All in all a good experience which we concluded with a walk through Delhi’s Chandni Chowk market. This is where I took the leap and risked Takashi’s unprepared immune system to India’s street food. After the heavy exertion, it was time to reward ourselves with some shopping and culinary escapades. Connaught Circus, Khan Market and the lot. The trick here is to know when to bail out. One can go quite far in draining his/her finances before the trip has even begun.
Day 5: The Long, Gruesome Road to Rishikesh
The closest railhead to Rishikesh is Haridwar, all trains to Haridwar from Delhi were booked. So we turned to India’s notorious coach system. On reaching the ISBT we were approached by touts operating private buses. We bought two tickets sighting no other option. Then I saw the coach, a sleeper coach. This is like nothing I ever hope to see again. It was a standard Indian coach converted into a sleeper by adding bunk beds on top. And the seating arrangement is such that 3 people share a bunk bed while the seats below are occupied too. Not even farm animals deserve to be transported this way. So I asked for my money back from this scam artist, after which he offered me a normal coach albeit mosquito ridden.
This was the so called ‘luxury coach’ we spent the whole night in, reaching Haridwar at some seven in the morning. We arrived in a place so clean, calm and peaceful. Within an hour this abode of peace turned into a chaotic civil war between pedestrians and horns, perfect time to leave for Rishikesh.
On our arrival to Rishikesh, we were attacked with honking cars and daredevil scooter stuntmen again but we soldiered on. We proceeded to the adventure sports center suggested in the lonely planet guide, only to find out what a clueless bunch they were. We finally signed on with another company, they arranged our transport to take us to the River Camp about 35 kms further up the river.
Day 6 and 7: Rafting Camp
We arrived to find the camp mostly empty. There were about 8 other people but they were one group and we didn’t really break the ice until nightfall when people got drunk. Alcohol is a social lubricant after all. What a decent bunch they were. We had tequila shots and shared banter till late at night. The morning after was rafting day!
I should say rafting when hung over is a bad idea, very bad idea. Our instructor George was an all right chap, we got on instantly. Through the day we conquered the highest grade rapids the Ganges had to offer. The experience of riveting through the ice cold Ganga through rapids and currents is utterly indescribable in words.
Day 8: Chandigarh
We proceeded to Chandigarh on the same proven means of transport that you take when the trains are all booked. This one was still more pleasant with only half the mosquitoes. We used a website calledtheotherhome.com to book a house share in the city. I really recommend this site to anyone willing to save money and staying clear of hotels. Also, the experience was amazing, wonderful house and hosts. Probably the best way to see any city.
We spent a day in Chandigarh shopping, eating and the like. We deserved a little rest after 20 hours of travel on India’s coach system. Here I was introduced to a new restaurant called Barbecue Nation. The deal is you pay an amount and you get unlimited barbecue served on the mini barby built in to your table and access to the buffet as well, classic!
Day 9: Shimla
Buoyed by our wonderful experience using The Other Home , we took a chance again and booked a home stay in Shimla. Awesome house, good location and lovely hosts. Shimla was used by the British as their summer capital in India. Probably a place they tried to make as close to home as possible. So they could sip tea in their hill gardens and dream of England after work. The architecture here pays homage to this history. Shimla is also India’s best kept hill station. No cars are allowed within city limits and this adds such charm and ease to the place.
Of course if it were up to me I would convert it into a major party hub by night. Imagine those cold, mysterious, gothic and narrow streets in the dark of night, lit up with a few clubs and parties, people having a smoke outside their respective joints and chatting to strangers on the street. But then I am 22 and just out of university. Expect ancestors past rising from their graves at the thought of such blasphemy.
Day 10: Manali and The Secret of Vashisht
As we hit the peripheries of Manali, the first views of perennially snowcapped mountains started to appear. The view from the city tends to be a bit of an anti climax however, since it lies on a shallow valley. Our timing was bad to say the least due to some huge redevelopment being carried out in the city. This is when Lonely Planet came in handy. We received tip of a village called Vashisht, some 7 kilometers from Manali. Without second thought we made our decision.
Vashisht was one of a kind. This scenic, touristy and quieter town is hidden away and hard to find, perhaps that is what makes it so great. Here you will find lots of Europeans, East Asians and the lot. You will find Israeli, French and Italian Cuisine in local cafes.
The village is nestled between scenic waterfalls, woods and mountains, many of which are spots reserved for meditation. The place is home to numerous adventure sports centers offering treks, trips and activities at shockingly low prices. All of them are run by like minded enthusiasts rather than entrepreneurs. This helps them cater to an unusual, select and alternative kind of traveler that just wants to enjoy nature, peace and adventure.
A well detailed and simple to read map of the area is available free of cost at the Himalayan Extreme Center in Vashisht.
Day 15: Go Goa
Just landing in Goa makes you want to chill. Just breathing that air and looking around that beautiful Portuguese summer architecture with the palm trees makes you forget every worry in the world. Perhaps that is why our driver was 10 minutes late?
We drove from Dabolim International Airport to Calingute. Calingute, in North Goa is one of the major beaches. Unfortunately, this makes the beach extremely crowded, unfriendly and dirty. Its good for water sports and that is about it. At night, this bit of coast in North Goa comes alive with shacks and clubs. Lonely Planet came in handy once more as we followed its instructions and proceeded to Palolem beach. Probably the south most beach in Goa. At least a 2 hour drive from where we were.
Palolem was as promised. A small but beautiful beach riddled with a good mix of foreign tourists from all over the world and friendly locals who didn’t try to extort you. The shacks here double up as huts for staying. We had icy chilled beer under the hot sun and quiet beach and then played beach football. We met so many people in just that one day. There were two brits, Olly and Teresa. This French girl who played football with us was probably the best on the field and a French film crew. After we sweated it out and exhausted ourselves, we hit the waves. This was probably the most refreshing experience of my life. The crew then got together for beers in the shack. Too bad this was the last day in Goa and all these wonderful people we just met! I regretted not coming to Palolem straight away.
In the end, I found the place for the next time I need to de-stress and chill. I suppose everyone has this one place that ticks with them. I have travelled too less to know but I will be going to Palolem again, definitely.
For more information and experience, you can directly reach Parth Aggarwal at parthvader89@gmail.com.
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