Wednesday, April 24, 2013

A Gastronomical Journey to the Roads Less Traveled: India’s North East

North East India Food
In the recent times there has been an evolution in the genre of food to the roads less travelled: The Northeast India. North-East India stands in the eastern most frontier of the Indian sub-continent, encapsulating immense natural beauty and vast potential of resources. Engulfed with eight states, this region has always been vibrant with colorful hand woven textiles, captivating folk heritage, mesmerizing nature and most importantly the holistic conglomeration of food.
The land which comprises of Arunachal Pradesh, AssamMeghalaya, Manipur, Mizoram, Nagaland, Tripura and Sikkim, promises a thought-provoking experience for an ardent traveler that is no less than a spiritual journey. With diversity in populace around this region, a large part has integrated with the mainstream and has undergone a sea change in lifestyle. However, one thing that still remains in its purest form is their cuisine.
Though one may tag North-East cuisine with various adjectives such as bland, healthy, aromatic, fresh etc., no meal is complete if it is not accompanied with a plate of steamed rice. Northeasterners are voracious rice eaters; strange, but true most of the delicacies in this part of the country evolve from it, not to forget its local liquor too. People in this region love to devour a good variety of meat starting from chicken, mutton, duck, pork and beef. They also eat a good variety of fresh water fish, greens and eggs in their daily diet. North East India portrays a harmonious union of various tribal communities living together.  The population residing here consumes their own choice of meat.
Bhut Jolokia
BHUT JOLOKIA, (Ghost Chili) found in North East of India,is one of world’s hottest chili pepper! It is used as a cure for many ailments as also the peppers are smeared on fences or used in smoke bombs as a safety precaution to keep wild elephants at a distance! It is also called Bih Jolokia in some places of Assam (Bih:’poison’, Jolokia: ‘chili pepper’; in Assamese).
Khorika Maas
Khorika Maas (FISH)
Duck
DUCK preparation is customary during Assamese Magh Bihu.
Within this region, there are communities which savor certain food items and others who do not.  Religious and communal beliefs also play an important role in the consumption of pork and beef especially in Assam.  The tribal communities residing in other parts of the region however do not have such stringent restrictions. Each of these eight states has their own unique culinary delight which they take pride in. Some of the popular ones being Bhoot Jolokia (the hottest chilly in the world), Akhuni (fermented beans), Bamboo Shoots, fermented fish and fermented meat. The brave hearts and the experimental eaters will love the pungent flavors that these delicacies. The North East style of cooking is very simple with less oil and less spice. From the famous ‘Bilahi Maasor Tenga’ (sour fish curry), Aloo Pitika (mashed potatoes) to the delectable Baahgaz Gahori (pork with bamboo shoots), ‘KU’ (fried grasshopper) and Haahor Mangxo (duck curry), the list is unique and endless.
A quick peep into the compendium of the gastronomical delights of these regions will help unravel the glory of devouring the North East cuisine.
North East Food
Arunachal Pradesh

Panch phoron @ northeast today
Smoked Pork in Sengmora Xaak
Smoked Pork in Sengmora Xaak
In the mesmerizing land of Arunachal Pradesh rice is the staple diet and it is cooked in different styles such as steamed, boiled, wrapped in bamboo tubes, pounded etc.  Meat lovers, Arunachalis, cook their meat either by grilling, roasting and stewing with vegetables. The cuisines of Arunachal have a Tibetan influence hence the intake of food items such as momos, thukpa etc. are very popular here. Arunachalis prefer rice beer, which they call Apong and also butter tea is amongst their favorite beverages. Belief and religion also plays a pivotal role in dictating the choice of food. Buddhist tribes such as Khamptis, Sherdukpas, and Khamiyangs refrain from taking both beef and mutton, whereas the other tribes residing there relish it.
Assam
Pithas, Assam
Khorisa Chutney, Assam
Khorisa is an ethnic ingredient used in Assamese cuisine. Essentially, it is grated bamboo shoots in raw, fermented or pickled form.
Assamese Thali
THE AUTHENTIC AXOMIYA THALI – includes, ALOO PITIKA (mashed potatoes flavoured with mustard), MASOOR DAL, STEAMED RICE, KHAR (vegetable preparation in soda bicarbonate),MAASOR TENGA(sour fish curry), RICE KHEER andKHAROLI (a paste of mustard and tamarind).
Tamul Paan, Assam
The ubiquitous TAMUL PAAN without which Axomiya hospitality is incomplete! TAMUL is basically betelnut/ arecanut but, unlike most of India, the Assamese people do not prefer it in the dried supari form. They have a very distinct form of maturing the dried betelnuts. Lime and Dhapat (Tobacco leaves) are served with TAMUL PAAN for those who prefered it that way!
Karbi Pork
KARBI PORK cooked in fresh Bambooshoot and sesame (Phak-ok,hen-oop,NEMPO pen Ke-Tun)!!
Mah Proxaad
“MAH-PROXAAD” – traditional offering at any Assamese ritual function.
Duck Tales!! Axomiya Style!!
DUCK IN THE FIRE !
Simple and homely in their approach, the Assamese style of cooking is mostly done in mustard oil. Rice eaters like the rest of the region, Assamese prepare various rice delicacies with the accompaniments of milk, curd, jaggery or sugars with puffed rice, ‘Komalchaul’, ‘chira’ and ‘hurum’. ‘Pithas’ is a delicacy made out of rice powder. Authentic Assamese dishes are generally bland as they are prepared with very little oil but are very delicious. Non-vegetarian dishes consist of fish delicacies, duck, chicken and mutton. Duck eggs also make sumptuous cuisines. The consumption of pork is slowly gaining momentum amongst the youth in this region, whereas beef is still a taboo. A typical Assamese thali would consist of tenga (a sour dish with or without fish), aloopitika (mashed potatoes), khaar (preparation made out of soda bicarbonate), dhekia (green leafy vegetables), maaspura (roasted fish), dal, pigeon/chicken/mutton curry, khorisa (bamboo shoot pickle), kharoli (mustard powder chutney) and paayox (sweet delicacy made out of rice and milk). The traditional meal ends with generous mouthful of some traditional refreshment like tamul-paan (betel nut and betel leaf).
Manipur

Manipur Food @ mingudam
Amongst all the North East states the cuisines of Manipur is the most evolved one.  The food items are comparatively spicier, require oil and need more elaborate preparation.  Traditionally, the Manipuris dine in banana leaves.  People of Manipur consume rice, meat, and fishfor most of their meals. Kabok, which is a traditional cuisine, is very similar to fried rice and is widely popular in India.  Another popular delicacy is the Iromba, a combination of fermented fish, vegetables, and bamboo shoots.
Meghalaya
Red Rice
Like most parts of the region, people from Meghalaya survive on meat and rice. Locals consume pork to an extensive amount; a very special dish among the Khasi tribe living there is the Jadoh, made out of blood of the pig. Chinese food is also prepared with great care as it is one of the cuisines favored by the local population. Kyat, the local brew made from rice, adds color to all the festive occasions.
Mizoram

Food Of  Mizoram  @ Azara
Dhekia Xaak & Boot bhaja
Dhekia (Diplazium esculantum), is among the cheapest and most commonly found vegetables but in terms of nutritive values it is among the best. The fern is used as a leafy vegetable by the people of the Northeast, where a research study claims that it the second highest protein-containing food plant, next only to soyabeen!!
The cooking style among the Mizosis is simple and healthy. They use less oil and spices in their food, keeping intact the nutritional value.  Besides their regular meat, vegetables and rice, Mizos consume locally brewed wine and a special kind of tea popularly known as “Zu”.
Nagaland
Naga Thali, Nagaland
AUTHENTIC NAGA THALI- (RICE MOULD-Millet,white and Red Rice), (KESE PORK-pork with fermented bamboo shoot), (ANISHI PORK-smoked pork and dried yam leaf), (CHICKEN AMERSO- Chicken in pounded rice gravy), (KHUO GACHA-Fish cooked in tomato).
KU (Grasshopper) and ZUTHO (Rice Beer)
KU (Grasshopper) and ZUTHO (Rice Beer)- an “elixir of life”, to all the Naga tribal communities!
The people of Nagaland predominantly consist of sixteen tribes. The Nagas are bold and adventurous towards their approach to food. A very significant feature of Naga cuisine is its unique flavor. Raja Mirchais an important ingredient for most of their cuisines. One of the popular delicacies being Pork cooked with Raja mircha. They use a lot of fresh herbs and greens in their diet which makes their cuisine simple and healthy. Another interesting ingredient in Naga cuisine is Akhuni (fermented soya beans). Bamboo shoot also finds a place in most of the dishes cooked in a Naga household.
Sikkim
Sikkimese Thali @ taste of sikkim
Fried Momos @ taste of sikkim
The staple diet of the Sikkimese is rice. However, some of their popular delicacies are Tibetan ‘Momos’ and ‘Thupkas’,Ningro with Churpi, Gundruk, Phagshapa and Sael Roti. ‘Tchang’ is a local beer made of millets and is served in bamboo mugs.
Tripura

Thukpa in Tripura
Pork and Khar
Pork Curry with lai Xaak (Mustard spinach/ tender green) / Khar(unique Assamese vegetable preparation in soda bicarbonate)
Tripura is mostly dominated by Bengalis, hence fish is an indispensable part of their cuisine. Fish is cooked in different ways along with other meat and vegetables.
Observing the varied differences in cuisines among these eight states, it becomes easier to comprehend how these simple and authentic delicacies make a way to the heart of food lovers. It also helps us understand the ethnicity of the tribes residing in this region. The food speaks in itself eloquently andpromises ‘new converts’ every time one explores the possibilities of the North East cuisine. Happy Eating!
If you looking for great accommodation options in North East India and want to experience authentic North-Eastern Cuisines, Contact us at bookings@theotherhome.com.
The best way to enjoy the cuisine of North East India is to stay with the locals in homestays and vacation rentals and enjoy each flavor in their own style.
(Guest Post: Bhagyajit Bhuyān)

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